P.I.L.L. Glossary

aerobic


Requiring oxygen to survive. Many bacteria must have a suitable supply of oxygen to be able to survive and thrive. Bacteria such as nitrosomonas and nitrobacter are aerobic and must be supplied with a constant flow of oxygen in the water to create suitable populations able to remove the ammonia and its by-products produced within the aquarium.

algae


A single celled plant that occurs almost universally in aquariums. Given enough light and nutrients, algae will grow on almost every surface in an aquarium. Although it may make the aquarium look dirty, it is not usually dangerous or harmful to fish, but most aquarists wage constant war against it anyway. To most, even a luitlle algae means the aquarium is not crystal clean. Although I always use any medication with caution, algae removers do exist, Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Algae Remover Tablets and Algae Destroyer Liquid are two of these. If you have live plants in the aquarium, always use any algae remover with extreme caution since algae is also a live plant and algae eliminators can cause difficulties to live plants as well.

ammonia


Ammonia is can have either organic or inorganic sources. In the aquatic world of your aquarium, most of the ammonia is produced organically. Fish live and respire, giving off ammonia through the gills as they accept oxygen. Fresh water fish also urinate constantly, inorder to eliminate the water forcing its way in through simple osmosis. As well as this excess water, ammonia and urea is eliminated. Although defecation does not immediately produce ammonia in the mulm (technical term for what comes out the anus), but it is still a major contributor. Decay bacteria work constantly to reduce wastes to the most simple compounds. As they perform their natural function, ammonia is one of the by-products.
There are a number of other organic ammonia producers, besides the initial ammonia production from the fish in the aquarium. Other wastes, like dead plants and fish are subject to the same decay processes as mulm, adding their substantial volume of ammonia to the water solution. More importantly, excess food added by the kind hearted aquarist also rots and produces an enormous amount of ammonia. This is a source that must be eliminated for an aquarist to be successful in the longer run. Inorganic ammonia is also a plague to the modern aquarist. The most common source is from the water supply. If there is chloramine in the water supply, ammonia is almost assuredly being added to the aquarium with every water change. Even when municipal water uses only chlorine to make water potable for humans, ammonia is often found as one of the components as well. This is most common when the annual spring run-off makes the water the worst it can be all year!

angel hair

An old style filter material. Filiments of fiberglass strands were often used to trap particulate waste in air driven filters such as inside box filters. Over time this media has been all but entirely replaced by polyester wool.

carbon, activated

Activated carbon is a staple filtration material here in North America. It is used to remove a variety of compounds and is one of the best at clearing and clarifying water. The carbon particle is not solid. It has numerous tiny pores that actively attract proteins, liquified wastes, medications and dyes inside to the internal carbon matrix. Once inside the impurity is trapped and removed from the aquarium when the carbon is discarded. Other ions and particles are elcrostatically attracted and held in the carbon until discarded as well. When the activity of the carbon diminishes, it often is left in the aquarium from lack of information. Since the substance is black and does not change color when it loses activity, it often is inactive for an extended period of time. I beleive that carbon is active for a maximum of three to four weeks, after that it is just a good place for nitrifying bacteria to populate. If you are going to use carbon, change it regularly!

charcoal, bone


chloramine


contact time


The length of time the water molecule is in actual contact with filter media in the filter chamber. The longer the contact time of water to mechanical filtration material, the better chance that particulate waste products will capture and trapped within the media. An additional factor is the actual path that the water must use to pass through the media. Thin medias permit the molecules to pass relatively unobstructed through them. Thicker medias force the water to change paths during their passage making the molecules come into contact with much more of the media surfaces, again increasing the chance that the substances will be trapped.
Contact time is also important when considering biological filtration. The more media the molecule comes into contact with, the better chance it will release its ammonia or nitrite to a population of bacteria.

distilled water


Relatively pure water quite often the result of trapping and cooling evaporation. This gives an uncontamminated water supply that, although not perfectly pure, avoids many of the problems found with well water or other supplies that make fish keeping difficult. Because distilled water is so pure, it has few trace elements required by the fish to survive. In addition the pH is not very safe or buffered. I tend to recommend distilled water for emergencies where the water supply is a problem, not for everyday use as the only water supply for the aquarium.

hardness


A measure of the assorted chemicals and other compounds dissolved within the water solution. The more carbonates within the water, the harder the water is said to be.
There are mainly two separate types of hardness. Carbonate hardness refers to the quantity of carbonates in solution, Non-Carbonate Hardness is a ctch all to refer to the other compaounds in the solution besides carbonates. The two added together give a total that is often referred to as General Hardness.

Ichthyopthirius multifiliis - (ICH) - White Spot


• Symptoms - This parasite can appear as a white spot anywhere on the fish. It almost appears as if grains of salt are sprinkled all over the fish. If the attack is very heavy, the individual spots look like patches on the fish. The fish often appears itchy, rubbing itself against rocks, gravel and decorations in the aquarium. Often accompanied with clamped fins and overall listless behaviour.
• Cause -
• Cure - I tend to use a preparation of Malachite Green in proper doses for aquariums. My personal long term favorite is Weco's NOX-ICHwhich I have had great success over the years. Other long-time successes in treating ICH are Mardel's Maracide and Tetra's Contra-Ich. In this hobby, use what works best for you!!

liquified impurities


A rather generic term encompassing the assorted wastes that dissolve into the water solution in an aquarium. Most often these can be thought of dyes, medication discoloration and proteinaceous wastes sloughed from the body of the fish. The slime coating of the fish are constantly being replenished, and the discarded proteins can make up a large percentage of liquified waste.

lithotrophic


Lithotrophic bacteria are found in soil. Most common and important types in the aquarium are nitrosomonas and nitrobacter. These are vital in the active removal of ammonia and nitrite. Since they are aerobic, they require an adequate supply of oxygen passing over the colony, they also are supplied with their food source, ammonia and nitrite from the passing water. They require clean hard surfaces where they can anchor themselves and create active populations and colonies.

malachite green


Malachite green is a old remedy, it is a dye that has been used effectively for generations against "ICH". It dyes the water and is effective against parasites in the free swimming form. As with most medicines, it should be used only as directed. Be careful when treating aquariums with bottom fish an tetras in it. These can be killed by standard dosages. Remember that malachite green is carcinogenic, it can cause cancer in strong concentrations. I suggest that you treat this, and any other medication you add to your aquarium, with great care.

methylene blue


This dye has been used for years as a treatment for "ICH". I question its effectiveness in this usage. It is a killer of dinoflaggellates and it does increase the level of oxygen in the water, but I would always use "Malachite Green" or some (almost any) other Ich remedy over Methylene Blue. It does discolour the water quite well and is easily removed by activated carbon. It does offer a way to test the relative effectiveness of different filters to remove liquified wastes, but otherwise its demand has been reduced in modern times.

mulm

The deposits created by the fish excretions. This consists of the digested food remains and other products created by the fish which end up on the bottom of the aquarium. These by-products are the prime targets of proper filtration. It is also one of the best fertilizers for houseplants, so whenever you do a water change on a fresh water aquarium don't simply discard the water, use it on the houseplants in the home.

nitrate


nitrite


nitrobacter bacteria


This is the lithotrophicbacteria that nature has created to reduce nitrite after it has been produced by nitrosomonas bacteria. nitrobacter is an aerobic bacteria which requires an adequate flow of oxygen and nitrite to prosper. Most often, these bacteria are cultured in undergravel filters which provide the clean hard surfaces they need to attach to. The nutrients provided by the water as it flows through the gravel substrate and under the undergravel plate are normally suitable to produce enough of a population to remove all the nitrite in the aquarium as soon as it is produced.

One problem that nitrobacter have always had is that they are inhibited by the presence of ammonia in the water solution. This means that nitrobacter cannot become active in the new aquarium until the population of nitrosomonas bacteria has thrived enough to remove all ammonia as soon as it is produced. Until this does occur, the nitrite in the aquarium will simply rise in concentration while ammonia is still evident.

nitrosomonas bacteria


nitrosomonas is the first bacteria the Nitrogen Cycle produces to remove the organic waste product ammonia from concentrating in an aquarium. nitrosomonas is a lithotrophic bacteria that requires clean, hard surfaces to atttach its population to. It is aerobic, requiring an adequate supply of oxygen to sustain its life cycle as well. Most often, these bacteria are cultured in undergravel filters which provide the clean hard surfaces they need to attach to. The nutrients provided by the water as it flows through the gravel substrate and under the undergravel plate are normally suitable to produce enough of a population to remove all the ammonia from the aquarium as soon as it is produced by the fish and decay processes..

poikilothermic (cold blooded)

Fish do not expend energy to heat their bodies. Their body temperature is thus directly determined by the environmental temperature of the water surrounding them. Since they have no way to regulate body temperature they are more sensitive to heat fluctuations than mammals. A rapid fluctuation of as little as 2oC can cause enough stress to open them to paracitic and fungal attacks. Another consequence of being cold blooded is clearly found in the fact that they have evolved within the temperature bands found in their native habitats. The digestive enzymes will work at peak effectiveness only when they find themselves within those strict limits. It is extremely important to ensure the temperature control within the aquarium is consistent and accurate and set to the correct temperature for the species.

polyester wool

An extremely common and inexpensive material that has replaced angel hair as the normal particulate strainer material for most air driven corner box filters. It is very good at removing particulate waste, but the fine strands of polyester weave clog rapidly and must be replaced on a very regular basis. With standard water flow, polyester wool will clog within a couple of weeks.

oodinium pillularis - velvet


Symptoms
Cause
• Cure

pH


pH refers to the acidity or alkalinity in water. The pH scale ranes from 0 - 14, with 7 being neutral. From the center 7 the scale measures the alkalinity (above 7.0) or acidity (below 7.0) on a logarythmic scale. What is actually being measured are the numbers of hydrogen ions (H+) and hydroxide ions (OH-) molecules. The more free hydrogen ions, the more acidic the water becomes. This results in a reading below the chemically neutral 7.0. Since the scale is logarythmic, there are ten times more hydrogen ions in 6.8 pH than in 6.9 pH. The same holds true for hydroxide ions when excess numbers make the water alkaline.
I have found that the living band of pH for fish is somewhere between 6.0 and 8.6 for most fish. Most South American fish like acidic water, including angels, discus, neons, etc. African Cichlids and marine species like it in the relatively high alkaline ranges, between 7.8 (africans) to 8.4 (marine fish and corals). Most species have specific comfort bands that should be used when breeding is important. Otherwise, most fish will be relatively comfortable close to the neutral ranges. By avoiding extremes you will probably be able to keep and enjoy a wide range in your community.
It is also important to remember that the pH is also affected by the buffering capacity of the water. Assorted compounds in the water will tend to keep the pH stable at the current level. Over time added acids or alkalii will overcome the buffer and the pH may suddenly change radically. It is also important to remember the importance of buffers when trying to actively change the pH of water. Always be very patient with a chemical addition, or you might find the pH has moved way past the target you require. Fish can withstand up to a .2 pH change in a day, any more than that and they will become stressed. This is important to remember when transporting fish from one aquarium to another. Although during transportation other stresses are more important, it is a good idea to know the pH where the fish were netted and the pH where the fish will be inroduced. Try to keep the difference below the .2 threshhold. Since a change of 1 unit of pH on the scale equals ten times more free ions, two units are

phenol


slime coating


This refers to the proteinaceous layer fish excrete over their scales to create a true barrier between themselves and the external environment. This barrier is normally quite effective in keeping external parasites such as "Ich" from having the opportunity to invade and anchor themselves under a scale. This coating can be removed during netting or when the fish is under stress.

spot filtration


Spot Filtration refers to the use of a mechanical filter to clean an aquarium rapidly. Spot filters are usually dedicated filters to remove particulate waste almost exclusively. One of the oldest is the Diatom Filter, while newer, less expensive and complete spot filters are seen in the inside power filters.

tannin


tetracycline


An antibiotic commonly used for treating bacterial and fungus infections. I personally stay clear of it because of the serious discoloration it gives the water. When using this or any other antibiotic, be sure to remove all carbon from the filters to ensure the dosage remains at optimal levels. After medication is finished, replace the carbon to remove the traces of the medication.

ro water - reverse osmosis water


Reverse Osmotic water is obtained by passing ordinary water through a membrane that only allows pure H2O through the barrier. This is normally a slow process and quite expensive, but produces the purest water available for special applications such as reef aquaria where the conditions need to be very carefully controlled. When an artificial salt mixture is used in an artificial reef, it is best to ensure that no extraneous chemicals or other substances change the carefully blended recipe of the salt away from the intended ratios. I do not generally recommend RO Water (or even Distilled water)

water clarifiers


These products are used to precipate particles in the water column to leave the water crystal clear. Most often they should be seen as a quick fix of the symptoms, not as a cure for the problem. Products such as Crystal Clear, Brite'N'Clear and Sparkling Clear are labelled to clear the water of cloudiness in a matter of minutes or hours. Use these products when the aquarium has to be clear very fast. Use a product such as Bio-Clean to innoculate the aquarium with needed bacteria to solubilize solid waste build up in the aquarium. Although this may take longer, it will build up a bacterial population to buffer against similar occurences.

water conditioners


water hardness


zeolite


A white rock that is chemically active to remove ammonia from water. It is often used within a filter chamber to adsorb ammonia from the passing water. It has also been used as decorative rock and gravel to also provide stark beauy as well as remove ammonia. It can be recharged with a brine solution, so it is not recommended for saline situations. There is no discoloration as it loses its activity. For this reason, follow the package directions strictly, if the product is used up, it cannot remove ammonia fluctuations when it is really needed. Return to P.I.L.L. Home Page